Jongno 3-ga: where history lives on

When I first worked in Jongno District nearly five decades ago, Jongno 3-ga was a place of teahouses and quiet storefronts. Today, it glows with neon signs, creative studios and bustling nightlife. Yet beneath these changes, its enduring spirit remains remarkably intact.

Jongno 3-ga’s greatness lies in accommodating seemingly incompatible worlds: old and new, quiet and boisterous, familiar and experimental. Having watched this neighborhood evolve over nearly five decades, I believe its greatest strength is its ability to change without abandoning its past.

That is why the recent proposal to add “Jeon Tae-il Station” as a secondary name for the Jongno 3-ga subway station deserves reconsideration. Jeon Tae-il’s courageous struggle for workers’ rights deserves lasting recognition. However, his life and activism are closely associated with Pyeonghwa Market and the Dongdaemun area, where he challenged the harsh working conditions endured by garment workers. Honor him there. Jongno 3-ga does not need administrative rebranding to demonstrate its historical significance or contemporary relevance.

The neighborhood’s history is layered enough without borrowing another’s. Jongno has been a historic thoroughfare since the Joseon Dynasty, and Jongno 3-ga has been reshaped many times since. Nearly six decades ago, a sweeping urban clearance campaign under Seoul Mayor Kim Hyun-ok transformed “Jongsam,” an area then notorious for its red-light district. The campaign reflected a broader ambition to modernize the capital. Yet redevelopment rarely erases memories entirely. The past survives in aging buildings, familiar streets and the recollections of those who witnessed these changes.

By the 1970s, Jongno 3-ga had emerged as a vibrant center of popular culture. Cinemas such as Dansungsa and Piccadilly attracted generations of moviegoers, while music and youthful aspirations shaped the neighborhood’s character. These streets were more than commercial spaces; they were places where cultural trends emerged and collective memories took root.

Today, Jongno 3-ga embraces strikingly different worlds. Around Tapgol Park and Jongmyo Plaza, older residents maintain familiar daily routines. Nearby, the traditional hanok-lined alleys of Ikseon-dong, the workshops of Seosunra-gil and the orange-canopied “pojangmacha,’ or street-food stalls, attract younger crowds and international visitors. Its recognition as Time Out’s world’s cool neighborhood reflects this distinctive blend of history and contemporary urban culture. Even internationally acclaimed filmmaker Christopher Nolan has reportedly been drawn to its distinctive alleys. Yet the neighborhood’s significance extends far beyond trendy restaurants, hidden bars and international rankings.

Few places in Seoul embody such a complex blend of memory, modernization, nostalgia and reinvention. In this context, the “Jongno Gathering,” to which I once belonged, holds a special place in my heart. Like Jongno 3-ga itself, its appeal lies in preserving traces of the past while continually adapting to the present. To me, Jongno is more than a workplace. It is a living history book, a second home and a cherished companion that has grown alongside me.

Its soul resides in the streets, buildings, colorful memories and people that have shaped it. As Seoul continues to redevelop the district, I urge the Seoul Metropolitan Government to preserve its traditional hanok neighborhoods and protect the cultural heritage that makes Jongno 3-ga unique.

Modernization should not come at the expense of historical continuity. By safeguarding its architectural heritage while embracing thoughtful change, Seoul can ensure that Jongno 3-ga remains a living reflection of the city’s past and a vibrant part of its future.

Choe Chong-dae (choecd@naver.com) is a guest columnist of The Korea Times. He is a recipient of Sweden’s Royal Order of the Polar Star.